Designing a Japanese garden is an art form that requires careful planning and attention to detail. These gardens aim to create a space for relaxation, contemplation, and beauty. Here are some steps to help you design your own Japanese garden.

• Choose a style: Japanese gardens come in many styles, including rock, tea garden, pond, and dry landscape. Deciding your preferred style is the first step to creating your unique space.
• Select plants: Plants are an essential part of a Japanese Garden. Choosing traditional plant species that suit your climate and soil conditions is critical, ensuring they will thrive in your area.
• Create pathways: Pathways craft an inviting atmosphere as they lead visitors through the garden to various focal points or areas of interest, such as water features or benches. Paths may also be used to divide the garden into distinct sections.
• Incorporate water: Water is an important element, representing life and serenity. Use a pond or fountain as a focal point and combine it with other water features, such as streams and cascades.
• Add structures: Traditional Japanese structures like pavilions or gazebos are perfect for creating an atmosphere of calm contemplation in your garden. They can also provide shade and shelter from wind and rain.
• Add accents: Accents enhance the beauty of a garden. Popular items include stepping stones, lanterns, wind chimes, stone statues, and bird baths.

10 Traditional Japanese Garden Plants

Plants are considered an essential element of a Japanese garden due to their cultural significance. Plants symbolize and evoke the beauty and tranquility characteristic of a traditional Japanese garden design. For centuries, plants have been used to bring out the natural elements while creating harmony and balance within the garden and helping to create a sense of peace and calm.

1. Bamboo: Bamboo is popular in Japanese gardens, as the hollow plants represent resilience and strength. It can be used to create a natural fence or barrier for privacy or artfully arranged to create an interesting sight line within the garden.

2. Pine: The needle-like leaves of pine trees are an iconic part of the traditional Japanese garden, with some species growing up to 120 feet tall. The pine symbolizes longevity and endurance, making it a popular choice for gardens seeking to create a sense of calm.

3. Cherry: When cherry blossoms bloom in the spring, they add beauty and grace to the garden. With delicate pink petals and a sweet fragrance, cherry blossoms represent the ephemeral nature of life.

4. Wisteria: This beautiful flowering vine is often trained to climb trellises or pillars for a dramatic effect in the garden. It’s said to bring luck and fortune to homeowners who cultivate it.

5. Azalea: Azaleas are popular flowering shrubs renowned for their vibrant hues and sweet fragrance. They bring a burst of color to the garden in springtime, when they bloom in a wide array of colors.

6. Maple: The importance of Japanese maples in Japanese garden design cannot be understated. They come in a variety of sizes and colors, and their branches often twist and turn in unique, beautiful shapes that make them a focal point of the garden.

7. Iris: Irises are cherished for their tall, elegant stems and brightly colored petals. These flowers symbolize courage, hope, and faith in Japan, making them a perfect garden addition.

8. Hydrangea: The delicate petals of hydrangeas look like snowflakes, making them a popular choice for adding structure and color to the garden. Hydrangeas represent gratitude in Japan, so they’re often used to say thank you or show appreciation.

9. Bonsai: This traditional art form is often used to add depth and dimension to a Japanese garden. Perfectly manicured miniature trees are specially grown and shaped to create a unique addition to the space.

10. Moss: Soft, lush mosses are often used as groundcover, adding texture and charm to the space. Mosses thrive in shaded areas, perfect for creating a cool and tranquil atmosphere.

Before beginning any style garden or landscape project, always lay out your design on paper. It will save you a tremendous amount of time, money, and tension. Also, ensure that your garden thrives by planting with the very best soil amender and fertilizer available:

• Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]
• Or, if your garden is in the Western Region, you can use Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Conditioner.
• Incorporate Bumper Crop® Starter Food at planting time.

Our soil calculator is a handy and helpful tool if you need to determine how much soil amender you will need.

By combining these principles, plants, and elements, a beautiful and peaceful atmosphere may be achieved, bringing tranquility to your home and garden. By planting with Bumper Crop® products, you ensure the longevity of your plants as you create your own unique version of paradise with a Japanese garden.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Starter Food
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It’s never too early to plan for fall decorating, and ornamental gourds are a must-have to spread the seasonal vibes. These plants are relatively easy to grow and require minimal maintenance to produce an abundant and vibrant harvest. Whether you’re looking to add something a little different to your home veggie garden or want a convenient and abundant source of autumnal décor items in seasonal colors, ornamental gourds are the way to go!

Types

When choosing suitable varieties of gourds for planting, many options are available. Ornamental gourds can be either large or small and come in various shapes. They are colorful in shades of green, orange, white, yellow, and red. They can be smooth surfaced or lumpy, bumpy, and winged. Smaller selections are generally used for decorating indoors on tabletops and mantles or added to outdoor planters, window boxes, and containers amongst seasonal plants. Larger varieties may be placed outdoors on steps, stoops, porches, and decks. Some, like “dipper, “bottle, and “birdhouse” gourds, are perfect for drying and crafting, turning them into usable and sturdy water dippers, bottles, and birdhouses. Check your local Master Nursery® Garden Center for seed availability.

Planting

Gourd seeds germinate easily and quickly and are best directly seeded into the garden after all danger of frost has passed. They may be planted right into the ground, in a container, or in a raised bed. Amending your in-ground garden soil with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] before sowing seed is the best way to ensure that your gourds are off to a healthy start. In the Eastern & Midwestern Regions, you may fill your raised bed with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder. If you plan to grow your gourd vines in containers, Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] is your best choice as it is lightweight. If you are unsure how much soil your garden, raised bed, or container requires, our handy soil calculators will help you determine the amount you need.

Planting the seed in small hills or mounds of soil is the traditional way of growing gourds as it contributes to good air circulation, thus reducing disease. Gourds love compost, so build your mounds using plenty of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. You can’t have too much! Sow three seeds to a mound, one to two inches deep, spacing them evenly so the vines will grow and flow down the mound. If growing many vines, mounds should be placed at least five feet apart. There is no need to mound soil when growing in a container, as the container serves as a mound. Because gourds are vines, growing them on an arch or trellis is a great way to utilize garden space.

Care

Once planted, gourd vines need plenty of sunlight and water. Placing them in an area that receives full sun will help ensure maximum growth and yield. Water regularly to keep the soil moist but not soggy. As the vines start producing flowers, it’s important to fertilize them regularly to keep them healthy and productive with more flowers and fruit. Side dress mounds with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® All Purpose Food once a month throughout the growing season.

Pruning

It’s a good idea to prune the tip of your gourd vines when they reach 10 feet long. This will encourage side branching of the vine, helping it to produce more fruit.

Harvesting

When it comes time for harvest, ornamental gourds should be picked when the vine’s tendrils begin to turn brown. Gourds need 100 to 180 days to ripen. Consult your seed packet for the estimated “Days to Maturity.” When mature, cut your gourds from the vine with pruners or a knife, don’t pull them. To ensure they last as long as possible, gently wash off all dirt from the gourds using a soft cloth. Dry them thoroughly. Store them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight or humidity until ready to display. With proper care, these colorful fruits can make for a stunning display during the fall months!

Happy harvesting!

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Organic Soil Builder
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® All Purpose Food
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Zucchini and summer squash are a summer staple in the garden and on the table! These versatile veggies may be enjoyed raw, grilled, fried, sauteed, roasted, and baked. They may be added to both sweet and savory culinary delights. To boot, they are also rich in vitamins and minerals. Grow them yourself, and you can have an endless supply all summer long.

Selecting

We recommend some of our favorite tried and true selections when purchasing seeds.

Summer Squash

Multipik – a straightneck bush plant with a high yield and long harvest time.

Tempest – a crookneck with a rich nutty flavor with a firm texture.

Yellow Crookneck – a buttery flavor and firm texture; pick at 4 – 5 inches long.

Zucchini

Safari – a green zucchini with white stripes, attractive and prolific yielder.

Raven – very dark green, concentrated fruit set, should be succession planted.

Yellowfin – a bright yellow zucchini, very productive.

Planting

Zucchini and summer squash are delightful vegetables to grow as they are easy enough for the beginner vegetable gardener.

The first step is ensuring you have the right environment for them – they need around 6 hours of direct sunlight daily and good soil that’s well-draining. A protected location, sheltered from the wind, is also advisable as it will assist in pollination. There is no need to start your plants indoors as both these veggies germinate easily and quickly and do not like being transplanted. They are best directly seeded into the garden after all danger of frost has passed, and the soil has warmed to at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Plant zucchini and summer squash into the ground, in a container, or in a raised bed. Both are heavy feeders, so amending your in-ground garden soil with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] before sowing is the best way to start and keep your plants healthy and happy. If you’re in the Eastern & Midwestern Regions, you may fill your raised bed with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder. If you plan to grow your zucchini and summer squash in containers, Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] is your best choice as it is lightweight. If you are unsure how much soil you need, our handy soil calculators will help you determine the optimal amount.

Sow three seeds about 1 inch deep and 3 inches apart when planting. In the ground and in raised beds, rows should be 3 feet apart. Black plastic mulch will help warm garden soil more quickly. Raised beds and containers will warm up quickly on their own and do not require this step. A soil thermometer is a helpful tool in determining soil warmth.

Planting Tip:

Zucchini and summer squash lend themselves to succession planting. Sow seeds every two to three weeks, ceasing in mid-summer, and you will have a continuous supply of these delicious veggies up until frost. Succession planting will also improve pollination, helping the squash plants to produce more abundantly and have bigger and tastier fruit.

Care

Zucchini and summer squash are easy-care vegetable plants.

• Water thoroughly after planting and keep the soil moist but not soggy throughout their growing season.
• Once the plants are established, you’ll need to feed them regularly. Fertilize every two weeks with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food.
• Keep weeds in check and mulch around the plants to retain moisture, discourage weeds, and prevent soilborne diseases. Salt hay or straw are recommended if black plastic mulch is not used.

Harvest

Harvest zucchini and summer squash when fruits reach their mature size; typically, this is between 4-8 inches long, although some varieties can grow to 12 inches or more! Cut fruits off their stems with sharp scissors or a knife – never pull on them, as this can damage the plant. Check your plants daily for ripe fruits since they can quickly become oversized if left on the vine for too long.

Growing zucchini and summer squash is an easy garden chore that yields delicious fruits to enjoy all season long.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Organic Potting Soil
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food
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In spring, female butterflies will be primarily concerned with finding their species’ specific host plants on which to lay fertilized eggs. Instinctively, they know they must locate plants to ensure their caterpillars have appropriate food for survival after hatching. Both male and female butterflies will be looking for flowers with nectar for their own survival. And they will be searching for shelter from rainy or windy weather, a sunny place for basking, and a water source. Because many natural butterfly habitats in North America are disappearing at an alarming rate, it is becoming increasingly difficult for butterflies to find these necessities of life.

Following these pointers, starting a butterfly garden can be simple and rewarding. The most important thing you can do as a gardener is plant both nectar and host plants. Providing host plants for caterpillars to feed on will allow you to watch the metamorphosis from caterpillar to chrysalis to butterfly. So, do not discourage caterpillars. They may make your garden plants look bad, but it’s usually only temporary. Most important – do not use pesticides! You may be killing off the very insects you made the garden for. And you don’t have to have a large area to get a response. Just a few select plants will spur some action. Choose the sunniest spot possible for your butterfly garden. It could be any size or shape; even a short border will work. Combining woody shrubs, perennials, and annual flowers works best, but using just a few plants can still yield results. Planting a section of wildflowers is an easy way to cover a problem area and lure some butterflies to your yard. If you don’t have room for a garden, fuchsia, petunia, or impatiens hanging baskets will attract butterflies and hummingbirds.

The following is a list of plants that attract butterflies:

Woody shrubs:

• Butterfly Bush (Buddleja)
• Deutzia (Deutzia)
• Glossy Abelia (Abelia)
• Japanese Privet (Ligustrum)
• Lilac (Syringa)
• Spirea (Spiraea)
• Weigela (Weigela)

Vines:

• Honeysuckle (Lonicera)
• Trumpet vine (Campsis)

Perennials:

• Aster (Aster)
• Butterfly Weed (Asclepias)
• Carnation (Dianthus)
• Coneflower (Echinacea)
• False Sunflower (Heliopsis)
• Joe-Pye weed (Eutrochium)
• Shasta Daisy (Leucanthemum)
• Yarrow (Achillea)

Annuals & Perennials:

• Alyssum (Lobularia)
• Balsam (Impatiens)
• Cosmos (Cosmos)
• Dahlia (Dahlia)
• Fuchsia (Fuchsia)
• Geranium (Pelargonium)
• Heliotrope (Heliotropium)
• Lantana (Lantana)
• Marigold (Tagetes)
• Petunia (Petunia)
• Portulaca (Portulaca)
• Salvia (Salvia)
• Snapdragon (Antirrhinum)
• Vinca (Catharanthus)
• Zinnia (Zinnia)

Tips:

• Plant all your pollinator plants using Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. This premium soil amender, blended explicitly for your growing region, will ensure your pollinator plants’ health, vigor, productivity, and longevity.
• To ensure the health and safety of your backyard butterflies and their caterpillars, fertilize your pollinator garden with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Rose and Flower Food. This organic plant food is a blend of natural ingredients designed to encourage sturdy growth and an explosion of blooms.

Remember, any garden, large or small, even a single container, can become a butterfly habitat with just a little planning.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Organic Soil Builder
Eastern & Midwestern Regions

Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Rose and Flower Food
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Eastern & Midwestern Regions

Juicy, cool, and sweet, watermelon is the perfect summertime treat, and no Summer shindig is complete without this refreshing addition. Did you know that watermelon is also easy to grow? Impress your friends at your next Summer soiree with the freshest fruit straight from the garden.

Let’s Begin

Watermelon may be grown from seed directly sown or from transplants. No need to rush, it’s best to make sure that both your air and your soil is warm before planting. Large fruiting watermelon plants take about 80 to 90 days to reach maturity. Small fruiting varieties take about 70 to 75 days.

Planting

Watermelons require deep, rich, nutritious soil to grow and taste their best. Plant your watermelon seeds, or transplants, in a sunny location about 6 feet apart and provide plenty of room for the vines to sprawl. Dig a large hole in your garden bed, about 1 foot deep and wide, and fill it entirely with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. If you’re in the Eastern & Midwestern Regions and are planting in a raised bed, which is an excellent way to grow watermelon, the bed may be entirely filled with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder.

A  powerhouse blend of manure, earthworm castings, kelp, and more, makes Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder the perfect planting medium to grow an abundant crop of deliciously sweet and succulent fruit. It’s important to know that watermelon roots grow deep and wide. Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder’s exceptional blend improves root growth and function.

Feeding

Fertilize your watermelon plants with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® All Purpose Plant Food when they emerge from the soil or at transplant time, again when vines begin to sprawl, and one last time at fruit set.  Be sure to water-in each fertilizer application.

Watering

Watermelons require ample and consistent water to grow their sweetest and juiciest. Stopping supplemental watering about two weeks before the fruit is ready to harvest will allow for the concentration of sugar to take place, creating a sweeter fruit.

Tips

• Mulch the area where the vines will run with a thick layer of mulch. Salt marsh hay or straw are perfect choices. Mulching will keep the developing fruit off of the ground, helping it remain clean and preventing it from rotting on moist soil.
• Watermelons are ready to harvest when the tendrils near the fruit turn brown, the under area of the fruit turns from white to a pale yellow, the green complexion becomes dull, and there is a hollow sound when you knock on the fruit with your knuckles.

The Summer growing season is just beginning, and there’s still plenty of time to plant lots of watermelon to impress your guests! See our Garden Center Locator to find your local store.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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This is the moment we’ve all been waiting for… Spring container planting! All through the long winter months, we eagerly await signs of Spring; however, the wait is now over! Garden centers are packed with their favorite cold-tolerant annuals… perfect for your Spring container garden!  Not only can containers bring an early burst of Spring to your front entryway, deck, patio, or porch, but you can get creative and expressive with stunning flower choices for every container.

Why Containers? Why Now?

Planting in containers like pots, urns, barrels, and window boxes can extend the growing season and help you refresh your gardening skills before the big rush of Spring garden chores. Containers are also less dependent on weather conditions and can easily be moved to warmer and sunnier spots even on chilly days. Spring containers can even be brought indoors to a porch, sunroom, or garage if a hard frost threatens, and your early Spring gardening doesn’t need to be in danger. Containers are easy to care for and can brighten up any part of your yard, even before Mother Nature gets growing again.

Favorite Cold Tolerant Spring Annuals

With limited space in containers, you’ll want to choose the very best Spring flowers for brilliant color and thriving growth. Spring can be a temperamental season and may still have fluctuating temperatures and uneven moisture, so it is smart to choose flowers that can tolerate these conditions.

• Alyssum
• Bachelor’s Button
• Calendula
• Calibrachoa
• Dianthus
• Diascia
• English Daisy
• Lobelia
• Nemesia
• Osteospermum
• Pansy
• Petunia
• Primrose
• Snapdragon
• Stock
• Sweet Pea

Tips for Spring Containers

No matter what flowering annuals you choose for Spring container planting, they need the best care to thrive through this often-temperamental season.

Be sure to select a premium quality potting soil for your containers! We recommend Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. This product is an exclusive blend of high quality natural and organic ingredients that are perfectly balanced for pH, water holding capabilities, and drainage. Choosing and using Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil will save you time and money, reducing both your water and fertilizer needs.

Fertilize your container at planting time to promote the best growth and vibrant blooms. We highly recommend Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Rose and Flower Food. This natural and organic plant food boasts an NPK of 4 – 6 – 2 to promote healthy plants and lots of flowers! It is blended with beneficial soil microbes, including mycorrhizal fungi to promote long, strong roots.

Take care not to overwater containers; balance your watering regimen with Mother Nature’s Spring rains. Pots should have good drainage to be sure excess water can easily flow away from the root zone. Placing pots on casters or stands can also help improve drainage and be sure the pots are not sitting in Spring puddles.

To help your Spring containers last as long as possible, deadhead the flowers regularly with sharp, thin pruning snips. This will keep the pots tidy and encourage reblooming for a longer flowering season, letting you enjoy every Spring bloom well into the season.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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Spring. It’s the time of year we conjure humorous images of the mischievous Peter Rabbit wreaking havoc in Mr. McGregor’s vegetable garden. Like the Beatrix Potter story, carrots are ideal for children and adults alike. They are fun and easy to grow for all ages and provide many health benefits.

Carrots consumption:

• Improves vision
• Boosts brain health
• Acts as an anti-inflammatory
• Supports immunity
• Reduces the risk of heart disease
• Regulates blood pressure
• Balances blood sugar

Eaten raw, boiled, steamed, or roasted, carrots have a delicate sweet flavor that may be enjoyed by even the pickiest of people and bunnies.

Fun Fact: Carrots are more nutritious when eaten cooked rather than raw. Cooking them until just tender increases available carotenoids, an antioxidant that enhances the immune system and protects from disease.

Carrot Crops

Carrots come in a variety of:

• Colors: white, yellow, orange, red, and purple
• Shapes: round, blunt, pointed
• Sizes: baby, small, medium, and long as well as thick and thin

As far as we know, neither Peter nor Mr. McGregor preferred a particular carrot, but we know of a few varieties that are worth recommending.

Adelaide

Orange
Baby Carrot, 3” long
50 days to maturity
Early season, fit more in a small space

Atlas

Orange
Round, 1 ½ to 2” diameter
70 days to maturity
Distinctive shape

Bolero

Orange
Thick, 7 – 8” long
75 days to maturity
Late season, great storage quality

Rainbow Mix

White, yellow, purple, and red mix
Thin, 7 – 9” long
67 days to maturity
Attractive colors, unique taste

Romance

Deep orange
Blunt, 6 – 7” long
70 days to maturity
Consistently good flavor

Carrot Cultivation

The single most important factor in carrot growing success is the soil! Carrots require very loose, fertile, well-drained soil with good moisture-holding capacity for long, smooth root development. Most gardens and gardeners are not fortunate enough to have the perfect soil for growing carrots; that’s where Master Nursery® comes in. Our convenient, bagged, premium soils and soil amenders are perfect for taking your native soil to the next level. To find a retailer near you, see our Bumper Crop® store locator.

To prepare your garden when planting carrots:

• In-ground Beds
  Till native soil to at least 1 foot deep, removing all rocks and debris, and evenly spread at least 4 inches of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] atop the soil surface and till again; this is best done in the fall.
• Raised Beds [Eastern & Midwestern Regions Only]
  Fill your raised beds with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder; no other soil is needed.
• All Containers
  Fill grow bags and tubs with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. Make sure that tubs have adequate drainage holes to prevent rot.

Not sure how much soil you will need? Our handy Soil Calculator makes it easy to avoid over or under-estimating the amount required for your particular garden size.

When amending the soil in garden beds and filling containers and raised beds, incorporate Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food; this will get your carrots off to a healthy start.

Carrot Care

Carrots are direct sown beginning in the early spring, as soon as the soil is workable, through mid-summer. Carrots may be grown in the ground, but for optimum results, especially if the native soil is heavy, plant them in raised beds or containers.

Easy to sow, seeds should be set 1 inch apart and ¼ to ½ inch deep in rows 12 – 18 inches apart. Keep the soil continually moist while the seeds germinate. Once the green leaves begin to form, thin the seedlings to approximately 2 inches apart, depending on the variety and shape of the selected carrot. It is important to keep the rows weed-free to avoid root competition.

Keep carrot roots consistently moist but not wet through their growing period. Mulching the rows will help retain soil moisture and discourage weeds from taking over. Carrots should be side dressed with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food one month after thinning and again one month after that. Carrots may be eaten at any stage. Harvest them when they reach their preferred size. Do not allow them to exceed their recommended size, or they will become woody, and the taste will decline.

Carrot Tip:  To avoid an overabundance and to support a continuous supply of tasty carrots, plant just enough seed to meet your needs every three weeks throughout the season. Stop planting carrots approximately 100 days before the expected first frost date. This planting should be a variety selected for storage and, after harvest, should be kept in a cool environment, about 32 degrees Fahrenheit, with high humidity. Don’t forget to plant a few extra carrots for Peter and his friends.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

Related Products

Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Organic Potting Soil
Eastern & Midwestern Regions

Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Organic Soil Builder
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food
Western Region
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Onions are arguably the most widely used vegetable worldwide, with over 20 billion pounds grown yearly. More often than not, onions are used to flavor food rather than eaten alone. They are the perfect addition to all sorts of savory dishes in just about every culture. In recipes, the bulbs may be used whole, sliced, diced, chopped, minced, grated, and even powdered. They are consumed raw, fried, sauteed, grilled, broiled, boiled, and roasted. Not only are they delicious, but there are also health benefits to eating onions. They possess potent anti-inflammatory properties, are high in vitamin C and B6, and are a great source of potassium. Although the bulb is most commonly consumed, all parts of the onion plant are edible, including green leaves and flowers.

Why Grow Your Own

Onions are easily affordable and readily available at the local grocery, so why grow your own? Well, for one, they taste better, much better! Convenience is another reason; you can have onions easily accessible at various stages throughout the growing season and beyond. Onions are also great companion plants. They are frequently planted alongside or interspersed with members of the cabbage family, beets, carrots, cucumbers, eggplants, lettuces, peppers, potatoes, squashes, tomatoes, and zucchinis to repel a number of garden pests.

Selection

Onions are available in an almost unlimited number of varieties. There are white, yellow, and red onions. They may have a pungent flavor, a sweet taste, or anywhere in between. There are small, medium, and large onion sizes. Scallions, green onions, or bunching onions are harvested and eaten when still immature before the bulb has formed. There are short-day (southern gardens), long-day (northern gardens), and day-neutral (mid-section America gardens) onion varieties. Your local garden center will advise which are best for your area. Personal preference and anticipated usage will help narrow your selection further.

Onions may be grown from either seed or sets. It takes a great deal of time to grow onions from seed; therefore, they should be started indoors early. Onion sets, highlighted in this article, are a quick and easy way to start onions, recommended for both the beginner and experienced veggie gardener. Sets consist of tiny onions that are to be planted directly into the soil and mature in about 14 weeks. When purchasing your sets, it is important to keep in mind that bigger is not better. The maximum size of the bulbs should be no greater than ¾ of an inch. Larger size bulbs tend to have several associated problems that can lead to grower disappointment.

Preparing

Onions must be planted in a full-sun location. In the north, onion sets should be planted in the spring as soon as the soil is workable and not too wet. In the south, they may be planted in the early fall. Onion sets may be planted directly in the garden, raised beds, or containers, but they must have loose, fertile, well-drained soil.

Poor soil? No problem! Master Nursery® has you covered with convenient, bagged, premium soils, and soil amenders! To find a retailer near you, use our Bumper Crop® store locator.

To prepare your garden when planting onions:

• Inground Beds
  Till native soil to at least foot deep, removing all rocks and debris, and evenly spread at least 4 inches of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] atop the soil surface and till again; this is best done in the fall.
• Raised Beds [Eastern & Midwestern Regions Only]
  Fill your raised beds with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder; no other soil is needed.
• All Containers
  Fill containers with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. Make sure that containers have adequate drainage holes to prevent rot.

Not sure how much soil you’ll need? Our handy Soil Calculator makes it easy to avoid over or under-estimating the amount required for your particular garden size.

Onions are heavy feeders. When amending the soil in garden beds and filling containers and raised beds, incorporate Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food; this will get onions, and all of your garden veggies, off to a good start.

Planting

When planting onion sets directly into the ground and in raised beds, create furrows (a trench or gully) about 2 inches deep and 3 inches wide. Rows should be no closer than one foot apart. Place about an inch of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] in the bottom of the furrow. Gently place the small onions 6 inches apart, pointed side up, and press lightly into the compost at the bottom of the furrow. Backfill with remaining soil. Simply a smaller growing space, this same planting process should be followed when growing onions in containers.

Growing

Onions grow best with about an inch of water a week. If there is a shortage of rain, supplemental water must be provided. Mulching between the rows will help the soil retain moisture and aid in keeping weeds at bay. Fertilize onions monthly by side-dressing with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food.

Harvesting, Curing, & Storing

Harvest onions as needed; they may be eaten at any stage. For winter storage, harvest time is here when the onion leaves turn yellow and fall over. You should see the top of the bulb crowning the soil, signifying that the bulb is mature. All onions should be taken up before the first frost. Either pull the plants by hand or use a garden fork to dig them out of the ground.

To cure onions for storage, lay them out in a single layer in a warm, dry, well-ventilated location until the necks are completely dry and the stem contains no more moisture. At this time, with a clean, sharp pair of scissors, cut the leaves and roots off of the bulb and gently place them in a bushel basket or mesh bag.

Onions are best stored in a cool, dark location like a root cellar, basement, or garage that will not freeze. The air temperature should be maintained around 35 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Some onions store better than others. The best will maintain their quality for up to 12 months.

Tip

If, by chance, an onion begins to bolt and throws up a flower stalk, immediately cut off the stalk and use the onion as soon as possible. Flowering changes the taste of the onion, making it unpleasant, and an onion that has bolted will not last in storage.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

Related Products

Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Organic Potting Soil
Eastern & Midwestern Regions

Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Organic Soil Builder
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food
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Like garlic? Who doesn’t? Most often thought of and used as an herb or spice, did you know garlic is actually a vegetable? Garlic is a member of the onion family. Although consumed in smaller quantities, all parts of the garlic plant are edible, particularly the bulb, just like an onion, making it botanically classified as a vegetable.

Garlic has been used to season food in many parts of the world for thousands of years and has unlimited uses. Its health benefits are also numerous. The consumption of garlic:

• increases immune function
• reduces cholesterol
• lowers blood pressure
• decreases bacteria
• lessens inflammation
• diminishes bone loss

For both the culinary and health benefits, wouldn’t it be wonderful to have garlic on hand whenever you desire? You can if you grow your own!

Garlic Selection

Garlic is most often grown in the fall for a very important reason; fall planting produces larger bulbs. Planting at this time provides the cold treatment necessary for bulb development while also allowing plenty of time for the plant to set roots before winter. That being said, spring is the next best time of the year to plant garlic. Still, you must replicate that cooling period by placing garlic bulbs in a paper bag in the refrigerator for vernalization prior to planting.

Note: spring-planted garlic will produce smaller bulbs than garlic planted in the fall and is harvested later in the season. Try planting both fall- and spring-planted garlic to extend your season and to provide early spring green garlic (softneck) and garlic scapes (hardneck) for spring harvesting.

Choose organic or locally grown garlic and not grocery-store garlic. Unlike bulbs purchased for eating, organic cloves sold for growing will not have been sprayed with a growth inhibitor used to prevent garlic from sprouting in storage. When buying garlic from your local garden center, select large, firm cloves without any signs of damage, softening, or bruising to provide the healthiest crop.

There are numerous varieties of tasty garlic to grow, but only two specific types.

Hardneck Garlic

• Cold tolerant for Northern gardens
• Produces a central stem called a “scape” that is edible
• Fewer but larger cloves than softneck (average 5)
• Requires 10 – 12 weeks of cold treatment

Softneck

• Less cold tolerant, used in Southern gardens
• No central stem: leaves may be harvested and eaten in the spring
• More but smaller cloves than hardneck (average 7)
• Required 3 – 4 weeks of cold treatment

Garlic Growing

It’s easy to grow garlic! It is resistant to both deer and rabbits and, when planted with other vegetables, makes a great companion plant. Do not, however, plant garlic alongside peas or beans, as it will stunt their growth.

To grow the best-tasting and biggest garlic bulbs, plant cloves in a full-sun location in rich, well-drained soil. The better the soil, the better the garlic. If your soil is not optimal, Master Nursery® can help. We offer conveniently bagged, premium soils, and soil amenders to prepare your garden and containers for planting. To find a retailer near you, use our Bumper Crop® store locator.

To achieve the best results when planting garlic:

• In-ground Beds
  Till native soil to at least 10 inches deep, removing all rocks and debris, and evenly spread at least 3 inches of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] atop the soil surface and till again; this is best done in the fall.
• Raised Beds [Eastern & Midwestern Regions Only]
  Fill your raised beds with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder; no other soil is needed.
• All Containers
  Fill containers with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. Make sure that containers have adequate drainage holes to prevent rot.

Not sure how much soil you’ll need? Our handy Soil Calculator makes it easy to avoid over or under-estimating the amount required for your particular garden size.

Garlic does best in nutritious soil. When amending the soil in garden beds in the fall and filling containers and raised beds, incorporate Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food; this will get your garlic and all garden veggies off to a good start.

For spring-planted garlic in the ground, raised bed, or in containers:

• Plant in the spring as early as possible.
• Leave the papery skin in tack when planting.
• Space cloves at inches on center in the planting bed or container.
• Press cloves into the amended soil, inches deep, pointed side up.
• Cover with inches of soil.
• Side dress with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food at planting time and once again one month later.
• Water garlic well after planting and fertilizing. The soil should be uniformly moist but not soggy, or the bulbs will rot.
• Adding a layer of mulch will help keep the soil moist, soil temperatures even, and reduce weeds.

Garlic Harvesting, Curing, & Storing

Harvesting
Spring-planted garlic will be ready to harvest in late summer when the lower leaves turn brown, and all others begin to yellow. Before harvesting, allow the soil to dry out a bit. Harvest garlic by gently loosening the soil around each bulb and lifting. Brush off all excess soil before curing.

Curing
Curing should be done out of direct sunlight in a shady spot with adequate air circulation. Spread harvested bulbs, single layer, not touching, on a drying screen for 2 to 3 weeks. Once fully cured, remove the leaves and roots with clean, sharp scissors.

Storing
Store garlic in a dry location with good ventilation at 45 – 50 degrees Fahrenheit and about 50% humidity.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

Related Products

Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Organic Potting Soil
Eastern & Midwestern Regions

Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Organic Soil Builder
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil
Western Region

Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food
Western Region
Eastern & Midwestern Regions

We never met a potato that we didn’t like! This delicious and versatile vegetable, available in a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes, can be eaten baked, boiled, mashed, and fried. It can be served as a side dish or used in soups, salads, and stews. And did you know that potatoes are even tastier when homegrown?

Benefits

Starchy vegetables, like potatoes, have gotten a bad reputation as of late. Starch is a carbohydrate that our bodies turn into glucose to use or store for energy. We’re told that potatoes “pack on the pounds”; however, we don’t often hear about their nutritional and health benefits. Depending on the type, potatoes are rich in antioxidants, fiber, vitamins like C and B6, and essential minerals like potassium, magnesium, and phosphorus.

Ready

Potatoes are a tuber. A tuber is an underground stem. Your local Master Nursery Garden Center is the best place to purchase starter potato tubers. These are called “seed” potatoes. Seed potatoes are available in a number of varieties, are disease-resistant, and have eyes (buds) from which the above-ground or vegetative part of the plant grows.

Popular potato varieties include:

• Adirondack Blue
  Color & Shape: Dark purple skin with purple flesh, oblong
  Facts: Good yield, gourmet
  Use: Great mashed and in salad
• Katahdin
  Color & Shape: Buff skin with white flesh, round to oblong
  Facts: Heirloom, good yield, drought-resistant
  Use: Perfect for soups and stews
• Kennebec
  Color & Shape: Thin, smooth skin with creamy flesh, round to oblong
  Facts: High yield, mid-season, stores well
  Use: Harvest new and mature. Frying, baking, & boiling
• Red Pontiac
  Color & Shape: Thin red skin with white flesh, round to oblong
  Facts: Grows well in clay soil, stores well
  Use: Harvest new and mature. Excellent for mashing
• Rose Finn Apple Fingerling
  Color & Shape: Thin rose-blush skin with pale yellow flesh, small, slender, finger-shaped
  Facts: Heirloom, stores well
  Uses: Roasting, salads, soups, & stews
• Yukon Gold
  Color & Shape: Thin gold skin with yellow flesh with a buttery flavor, slightly flat and oval
  Facts: Early potato, high yield, stores well
  Use: Harvest new and mature. Boiling, baking, frying, mashing & salads

One to two days before planting, with a sharp, clean knife, cut the seed potatoes into 1 ½ to 2-inch pieces, each containing at least one eye. To prevent rot, allow the cuts to air dry and callus over before planting. If the seed potatoes are smaller than two inches, you may plant them whole as long as they have at least one eye.

Set

Potatoes should be planted in the spring when the soil temperature is at least 45 degrees Fahrenheit and require a full sun site. Potatoes may be grown directly in the ground, in raised beds, grow bags, and tubs, but they must have loose, fertile, well-drained soil.

Don’t have optimum soil? This is where Master Nursery® comes to the rescue with convenient, bagged, premium soils, and soil amenders! To find a retailer near you, use our Bumper Crop® store locator.

To prepare your garden when planting potatoes:

• Inground Beds
  Till native soil to at least foot deep, removing all rocks and debris, and evenly spread at least 4 inches of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] atop the soil surface and till again; this is best done in the fall.
• Raised Beds [Eastern & Midwestern Regions Only]
  Fill your raised beds with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder; no other soil is needed.
• All Containers
  Fill containers with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. Make sure that containers have adequate drainage holes to prevent rot.

Not sure how much soil you’ll need? Our handy Soil Calculator makes it easy to avoid over or under-estimating the amount required for your particular garden size.

When amending the soil in garden beds and filling containers and raised beds, incorporate Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food; this will get potatoes, and all of your garden veggies, off to a good start.

Go

Now it’s time to plant. In both in-ground and raised beds, create furrows (a trench or gully) about 8 inches deep. The furrows should be at least three feet apart to give potatoes plenty of room to grow. Place the potato pieces one foot apart in the furrows with the eyes facing upward. Cover the potato pieces with 4 inches of the soil excavated to create the furrows. As the potato plants grow, you may continue to fill up the furrow and even mound the soil around the plant to develop a deep, soft place for potatoes to mature. This same process should be used in grow bags and tubs. It is simply a smaller growing space.

Basic Care

• Potatoes prefer a soil pH of 6.0 – 6.5 but will grow in soil pH as low as 5.5. Test your soil before planting and amend accordingly.
• Potato plants require 1 – 2 inches of water per week. If Mother Nature does not provide moisture, then we must.
• After planting, continue to fertilize potatoes monthly with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food; to keep plants healthy and increase yield.

Harvest Time

• New
  New potatoes are ready to harvest in approximately 60 to 90 days from planting; harvest time depends on the variety and weather conditions. It should be safe to harvest new potatoes 2 to 3 weeks after the plant stops flowering.
• Mature
  Fully mature potatoes are ready to harvest approximately 120 days from planting; harvest time depends on the variety and weather conditions. It should be safe to harvest mature potatoes 2 to 3 weeks after the plant foliage has died back but before the first fall frost.

Reaching into the soil and harvesting a potato or two is perfectly fine to ensure they are ready. Mature potatoes should have thick and well-attached skins. If the skins are too thin, they will be easily rubbed off and should be left in the ground for a more extended period of time.

It is best to dig your potato crop with a garden fork. Begin carefully digging a foot and a half out from the center of the plant to avoid spearing or damaging the vegetable. Damaged potatoes do not store well.

Storage

Cure potatoes for about two weeks at 45 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit; spread out in a single layer in an area with high humidity. This allows the skin time to harden. Once cured, sort through the potatoes and dispose of any soft, bruised, or damaged tubers. Store potatoes in a cool, dark environment at around 40 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature rises above 45 degrees, the tubers will become useless as they sprout and shrivel. The best place to store potatoes is a root cellar, cool basement, garage, or spare refrigerator. Never let potatoes freeze! Most mature potatoes will remain in good condition with proper storage for seven to eight months.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

Related Products

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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food
Western Region
Eastern & Midwestern Regions

5 EASY STEPS TO CREATING AN IN-GROUND VEGETABLE GARDEN

Growing your own vegetables is not only an enjoyable pastime but also contributes to a healthy lifestyle, offering fresh air, sunshine, exercise, and nourishing food to eat.

If you are new to vegetable gardening, here are our 5 steps to get you started.

Step One

Select a site for your garden. This area should be located in full sun, should be relatively flat, well-draining, and convenient to a water source.

Step Two

Determine what size your garden will be. This will depend on how many people are eating from your plot and how much available time you have to care for your garden. If this is your first veggie garden, it is best to start small so that you are not overwhelmed. You can always increase the size next year.

Step Three

Prepare the bed. Strip off the sod and heavily amend the soil with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. This will guarantee that your veggies get off to the best start possible. The soil builder may be either tilled or turned into the soil. Sprinkle Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food into the amended soil and rake it in. Level the soil and you are ready for planting.

Step Four

Select the vegetables that you would like to grow, and grow what you like to eat. It is, however, a good idea to keep it simple in the beginning. Here are some easy spring crops that can be direct seeded right into the garden after the last frost. Always read your seed packet, as it will provide you with the particulars of each vegetable that you grow.

• Beets
• Carrots
• Lettuce
• Peas
• Radishes
• Scallions
• Spinach

As the soil and air temperatures rise, these cool season crops will peter out. At that time, you may remove them, add an inch or two of  Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] and fertilize again with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food before planting your warm season veggies.

• Beans
• Cucumbers
• Peppers
• Squash
• Tomatoes
• Zucchini

Beans, cucumbers, squash, and zucchini may all be direct seeded into the garden. Tomatoes and peppers, on the other hand, should be planted in the garden as young plants.

All veggie plants, seeds, supports, soil amenders, fertilizer, and tools may be found at your helpful and well stocked Master Nursery® Garden Center.

Step Four  

Be certain to familiarize yourself with the plants that you are growing. Some are vining plants that may do best when trellised, like peas and beans. Others, like tomatoes and peppers, require support with either a cage or stakes and twine. Some plants, like zucchini and squash, are best planted into a slight mound of soil and left on their own to sprawl. Plants like beets, carrots, lettuce, radishes, scallions, and spinach require no support at all.

Step Five

Nurture your veggie plants to fruition. Ensure that they receive adequate water. Fertilize monthly during the growing season. Add a layer of mulch to keep soil moist and keep weeds at bay. Check plants frequently for insect and disease damage, and consult your Master Nursery® Garden Center if you detect a problem. The staff will gladly assist you with a solution. Harvest your vegetables when ripe and, most importantly, enjoy!

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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Why Raised Beds
Any plant grown in an in-ground garden may be cultivated in a raised bed; this includes flowers, fruits, vegetables, and herbs. Raised bed gardening offers several advantages over growing in the ground; these include:

• Improved soil conditions
• Earlier planting
• Easier maintenance
• Decreased garden pests
• Higher crop yield

Building a Simple Raised Bed

Raised beds are available in various styles, materials, and sizes. They may be purchased complete or in DIY kits. If you are adventuresome and thrifty, building your own raised garden bed from scratch is the way to go.
A home-built raised bed can be made to any size you choose; however, it is best to build the bed no wider than 4 feet. Optimal for ease of planting and maintaining, a raised garden of 4 feet wide will ensure you will never have to stretch further than 2 feet into the bed, a comfortable reach for most.

Materials for a Simple DIY 4’ x 8’ Raised Bed

A 4’ x 8’ raised garden bed is a perfect size. It will provide plenty of room to grow various vegetables, including peppers, tomatoes, lettuce, carrots, radishes, cucumbers, and more. Whereas lettuce only requires a 6-inch soil depth to accommodate its root system, tomatoes, kale, cucumbers, squash, and zucchini need about 16 inches. We recommend building your bed at least 18 inches deep to accommodate plants with a heftier root system.

Note: All wood is not equal. For your bed’s longevity, we recommend using either cedar or white oak. We do not recommend using pressure-treated lumber for a raised bed in which edibles will be grown.

Materials

• 6 pieces of 2” x 10” x 8’ Boards
• 4 pieces of 2” x 2” x 24’ Wooden Stakes
• Deck Screws
• Table Saw
• Electric Drill
• Electric Screwdriver

Let’s Prepare

• Gather your supplies and tools, borrowing tools if necessary.
• Select a full sun site with level ground convenient to a water source.
• If the selected site is lawn, mow it short and cover it with landscape fabric or a thick layer of cardboard or newspaper to help suppress weeds.
• To save time and energy, work directly in the area where the raised bed will be situated.

Let’s Build

• Cut 2 of the boards in half, creating four 4’ pieces. Leave the remaining four boards uncut at 8’.
• Form a rectangular frame with 2 of the 4’ boards and 2 of the 8’ boards.
• Pre-drill screw holes that will be used to secure the corners – 4 per corner.
• Fasten the boards together with the deck screws.
• Repeat with the remaining boards.
• Lay one frame over the selected site.
• Mark the 2” x 2” x 24” stakes with a line 8 inches from the pointed tip of the stake.
• On the inside of one of the corners of the frame, pound a 2” x 2” stake into the ground up to the 8” line. This will leave 16 inches above the ground.
• Insert a stake directly inside the frame at the remaining three corners of the bed and pound them into the ground at the 8” line.
• With the deck screws and drill, secure the frame to the stakes.

Preparing the Raised Bed

Fill

Now is the perfect time to build a raised bed and fill it with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions]. Our handy calculator will assist you in recommending the amount of soil your specific bed size requires.

Feed

Organic fertilizers are naturally slow release. Fertilize your raised bed at soil filling time, and it will be perfect for planting. Visit our website to review our variety of organic fertilizer offerings designed to meet your crop’s specific needs.

Protect

Soil should never be left exposed to the elements. Be sure to cover your prepared raised bed soil during the winter. Place a thick layer of salt marsh hay, straw, or leaves atop your soil and leave it in place until you’re ready to plant in the spring.

Late fall and early winter are the perfect times to build and fill a raised bed. Addressing this late-season chore will keep you gardening in the colder months, assuring that your muscles remain active and will leave you with a lighter workload when spring arrives.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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Succulents make charming, easy-care additions to your houseplant collection. This popular plant group will add a unique assortment of fleshy, fantastically colored foliage to your home to be enjoyed year-round.

What Are Succulents?

If you are familiar with aloe, agave, jade, or snake plants, you already know some of the most popular succulents. What distinguishes these houseplants from others is their thick, fleshy leaves that store moisture. This allows them to remain healthy with very little water. Succulents are generally slow growers that thrive with neglect. This makes them the ideal houseplant for those with a busy schedule and novice plant parents.

Choosing Succulents

There are so very many captivating succulents offered at your local Master Nursery® Garden Center in a wide range of colors, shapes, and sizes. Large growing succulents and those with rubbery leaves, like the ZZ plant and snake plant, are perfect for growing as a single potted specimen. When choosing a group of succulents to plant together in a container, select various colors, textures, and shapes that appeal to you. Most succulents have similar cultural requirements, making them perfect container mates.

When designing a succulent container garden, the same basic container garden principles apply. You will need a thriller (upright plant), filler (plants to fill in the void), and a spiller (a plant that hangs over the side) to obtain the most pleasing appearance.

Caring for Succulents

Succulents are relatively easy-care plants, but they do have specific needs.

POTS
A pot for succulents must have excellent drainage with one or more drainage holes, as these plants do not like wet feet. Unfinished terra cotta pots make the perfect succulent planter as they are porous, keeping the soil from remaining too moist. Shallow or otherwise small pots are fine for succulents, as these slow growers don’t mind being a bit cramped.

SOIL
Fast-draining soil is a must for succulents. We recommend using Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] with the addition of coarse sand or perlite to sharpen the soil drainage further. This will allow the soil to dry out more quickly, making it suitable for succulent success.

FERTILIZER
Indoor succulents require only a mild feeding once a year as growth resumes in the spring. The longer days and increased sunlight will stimulate new growth. It is best to select a fertilizer labeled for succulents and cacti.

SUNLIGHT
Succulents will maintain their compact stature and show off their best color if they receive at least 6 hours of sunlight daily. South or west-facing windows are the best options. Rotating pots once a week is a good idea to ensure straight, even growth. For larger succulent containers, use wheeled stands or coasters so they can be rotated easily.

TEMPERATURE
Indoor succulents do well in typical household temperatures but prefer slightly lower temperatures when their growth slows in winter. At that time, consider moving them to a cooler room.

WATER
While succulents thrive in arid climates, they need proper watering to stay plump and fresh. Allow the soil to dry out between watering. When you do water succulents, water them thoroughly. Do not let the plants stand in water; empty saucers immediately. For larger potted succulents, pot feet, to lift the plants above the saucer, will assist in drainage. Avoid pouring water directly on the fleshy leaves. Instead, water the soil using an indoor watering can.

EASY TO GROW INDOOR SUCCULENTS

Thriller

• Panda Plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa)

Colors: Fuzzy blue-green leaves

• Zebra Plant (Zebra haworthia)

Colors: Deep green leaves with white horizontal stripes

Filler

• Houseleeks (Sempervivum tectorum)

Colors: Green, chartreuse, gold, blue, purple, & burgundy

• Hens and Chicks (Echeveria species)

Colors: Green, gray-green, silver, black, blue-green, blue, purple, maroon, red, pink, orange, & gold

Spiller

• Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum)

Colors: Green, blue-green, blue, purple, & gray

• String of Pearls (Senecio rowleyanus)

Colors: Green & variegated white and green

Of course, if you feel adventurous, there are many more exciting succulents to choose from. However, this list provides an extraordinary variety of easy-care, colorful succulents for your first project.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Organic Potting Soil
Eastern & Midwestern Regions

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The bare root plant is one of the best-kept secrets in gardening! Bare root plants are woody trees and shrubs, herbaceous ornamental perennials, and even vegetables that are dug, stored, and sold while dormant. They are offered, sans soil and pots, with their (bare) roots exposed.

Bare Root Benefits

There are many benefits of going the bare root route instead of potted plant stock!

• Better Value
• Larger Selection
• Healthier Plant
• Bigger Root System
• Easier Planted
• Earlier Planted
• Quicker Establishment
• Faster Growing

Bare root plants cost up to 50% less than the same size plant sold in a pot. There is substantially less labor involved in getting the product to market. Bare root plants are convenient for the grower to store, lightweight for shipping, and do not employ soil or containers. These savings are passed on to the consumer.

Bare Root Fruits
Many ornamental plants are sold bare root; roses are an excellent example. Fruit trees and strawberries, however, tend to be the two most popular edibles offered this way.

Strawberries
At first sight, bare root strawberry plants can look a little scary. Here are a few tips to give you confidence.

• Bare root strawberries are available in early spring and should be planted immediately after purchase.
• Examine plants to ensure the foliage is intact, and the root system looks healthy. There should be no presence of mold or foul odors.
• A well-prepared site is critical! Select a full sun location. Amend the planting site soil deeply with a generous amount of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] or Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Conditioner [Western Region]
• Work Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Tomato and Vegetable Food into the prepared bed following the recommended rate on the packaging.
• Rehydrate plants. Soak just the strawberry roots in a shallow bucket of fresh water for about 20 minutes.
• Dig planting holes 18 inches apart, as deep as the roots are long.
• Spread the root out in the hole and backfill it with the amended soil. Be sure to keep the crown, the central point from which the leaves radiate, at the soil level.
• Water newly planted strawberries immediately and deeply.
• Mulch with salt hay or straw to help retain soil moisture.

Fruit Trees
There couldn’t be a more convenient and successful way to plant a fruit tree than bare root. Here’s how it’s done.

• Like strawberry plants, bare root fruit trees are available in early spring and should be planted immediately after purchase.
• Store bare root fruit trees in a cool, dry environment until ready to plant.
• Select a full sun site large enough for your fruit tree to fully mature.
• Unwrap the tree and gently untangle the roots.
• To rehydrate, soak tree roots, just the roots, in a bucket of fresh water for 3 – 6 hours.
• While the tree is soaking, dig a hole at least 3 feet wide at approximately the same depth as the tree was growing before being bare-rooted. The differential color line on the tree trunk will determine the planting depth. The darker portion was underground before uprooting. If the tree has been grafted, the graft should remain 2 inches above the soil level.
• Mix the excavated soil with a generous amount of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] or Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Conditioner [Western Region] and create a mound in the planting hole.
• Following the instructions on the product packaging, mix Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Starter Food with the backfill soil to give the tree a good start.
• Place the tree roots on the mound in the planting hole at the correct depth, spreading the roots over the mound. Backfill with the amended soil, gently firming as you do to remove any air pockets.
• Create a “saucer” with the extra soil, which will help direct water to the root zone and water the plant deeply.
• Mulch to retain soil moisture.

Wait and be amazed! Whether planting strawberries or fruit trees, you will begin to see signs of life in about a month to 6 weeks. However, be prepared; bare root planting is so easy and affordable that it may become an addiction.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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“Eat your greens” is good advice, right? Greens are nutritious and rich in vitamins A, C, E, and K. They supply necessary minerals to the diet, such as iron, calcium, magnesium, and potassium. They are an excellent source of fiber and antioxidants. Greens are also low in carbohydrates. The perfect food!

Greens are easy to grow outdoors in the spring, summer, and fall. But what about winter? How does the home gardener ensure a steady supply of this nourishing food during the coldest months of the year?

Introducing Microgreens

Growing produce during the winter is nearly impossible in many parts of the country without a heated greenhouse. The exception is microgreens!

Microgreen Advantages

• Super Nutritious

Miniscule microgreens pack a powerful nutritional punch in a small package.

• Space Saving

Their diminutive stature makes them perfect for indoor growing.

• Convenient

They may be grown right in your kitchen!

• Easy to Grow

Growing microgreens requires no previous gardening experience.

• Quick Growing

Turnaround time is generally 1 – 2 weeks.

• Cost Effective

Expensive to buy at the grocery store but inexpensive to grow at home.

Selecting Microgreens

Just about any greens you typically eat may be grown as microgreens; familiar favorites include arugula, beet, cabbage, chard, kale, lettuce, mustard, radish, spinach, and turnip. There are other plants whose greens may be grown, harvested, and eaten as tasty and nutritious microgreens; this includes amaranth, basil, cauliflower, carrot, celery, chia, parsley, pea, sunflower, and more. Growing a variety is a good idea as each plant type provides a unique flavor and health benefits.

Growing Microgreens

Microgreens are grown densely in a shallow tray and are harvested when young and tender. They are sophisticated, tasty, super healthy, and beautiful, adding additional color and texture to salads, sandwiches, stir-frys, juices, soups, garnishes, and more. As a side note, growing microgreens is the perfect way to introduce children to gardening and good nutrition.

Materials

• Seed
• Soil
• Tray
• Spray Bottle
• Scissors

In the tray size of your choice, place about an inch of pre-moistened Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region], evenly smoothing it out. Generously scatter or sprinkle your chosen microgreen seeds, in a single layer, on the surface of the soil; think of how you would salt and pepper your food. Cover the seeds with a very thin layer of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil and mist with water to ensure that the seed is well moistened, being careful not to over-water. As microgreens are a quick turnaround crop, fertilization is not necessary.

Place the seeded tray in a sunny location or under grow lights. Covering the tray with a clear dome or plastic wrap will help retain soil moisture but must be removed once the seed germinates. After the clear covering is removed, ensure adequate air circulation.

With fresh water, mist the maturing microgreens a couple of times a day to keep the soil moist but not wet. Turnaround time is as little as three days after seed germination, depending on the plant.

Allow greens to grow to 2 – 4 inches tall and harvest with clean scissors.

Harvested microgreens should be stored in the same manner as full-sized greens and will last just as long in the refrigerator.

Plant a new tray every week for a continuous supply of microgreens.

No matter where you live, in a rural, suburban, or urban location, microgreens may be counted on as an affordable, quick, easy, nutritious year-round crop.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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The weather outside is frightful, but winter meals containing fresh herbs are so delightful!

Gardeners know that there is simply no comparison between store bought produce and food plucked straight from the garden. Homegrown fruits, vegetables, and herbs are simply more flavorful and nutritious when picked at their peak of freshness and consumed right away. This is easily accomplished during the more temperate times of the year, but what about the Winter? In colder climates, fruits and vegetables are difficult to grow during the Winter months unless you have access to a heated greenhouse. Herbs, on the other hand, are easily grown indoors and can improve the taste of everything you cook all Winter long.

Let’s Begin

For the ambitious and experienced gardener, herbs may be started indoors from seed. However, along with the seed itself, you will require some familiarity with seed-starting procedures and have on-hand basic seed-starting supplies such as a heat mat, humidity dome, and grow light. A quicker and simpler way to initiate your fresh herb adventure is to select plants in pots, already established, from your local Master Nursery Garden Center. This is the easiest choice for the new gardener and will ensure the quickest results for all herb lovers.

Let’s Choose

Any herb that can be grown in the ground may also be grown in a container; however, some herbs are more easily cultivated indoors than others. Also, it is a good idea that you base your selection of herbs on those that you tend to use the most.

Our favorites include:

Basil • Chives • Marjoram • Mint • Oregano • Parsley • Rosemary • Sage • Thyme

Let’s Grow

To grow the healthiest, freshest, and most flavorful herbs indoors, consider…

Light

Select a sunny location, the brighter, the better. A south or southwest exposure is best as plants require at least 6 hours of sunlight a day to flourish. If this situation is not possible, you may want to add an indoor grow light to supplement the natural light.

Containers

While shopping for your herb starter plants, select the containers that you will transplant your new additions into. Each herb should have its own container and each container should have drainage holes. You may also want to base your choice of decorative containers on size, your décor, and personal aesthetics.

Soil

Pick up a bag of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] to use for transplanting your herbs into their new containers.  Superior quality Master Nursery® potting soils have an advantage over garden soil, which can harbor pests and disease and is not suited for indoor use. Our potting soil mixes provide the perfect balance of natural and organic materials to enhance drainage, water retention, and fertility for growing healthy, tasty herbs.

Fertilizer

Plan to fertilize your herbs at planting time. Begin by mixing the recommended amount of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Starter Food or Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® All Purpose Food into your potting soil when transplanting. These natural and organic, gentle formulas will ensure that your plants receive exactly what they need to get off to the best start possible.

Water

Some herbs will prefer more water than others. This is why it is best to plant each selection in its own separate container. When choosing a pot, keep in mind that a smaller pot will dry out sooner than a larger pot and, therefore, require more frequent watering. Clay pots, because they are porous, will dry out more quickly than plastic or ceramic. Check your herbs often and water as needed. It’s a good idea to give your herbs a quick monthly shower under the faucet to wash off normal household dust, too.

Let’s Harvest

When you are ready to enjoy your herbs, simply snip what you need. Cutting often will encourage a thicker and fuller plant.

Let’s Cook

Enjoy your indoor herbs to garnish your kitchen creations. Add them to soups, stews, salads, and all manner of Winter side dishes. So easy and so tasty! Bon appétit!

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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Houseplants have the ability to brighten up any room, but harsh Winter conditions can cast a dark shadow on houseplant health. The effects of dry air, cold temperatures, shorter days, and lower light levels will all take their toll on even the most robust and easiest to care for plants. Our suggestion…. Know what you grow! Selecting the best houseplant for your environment, or adjusting your environment to suit your houseplant’s preferences, will go a long way in increasing the life and beauty of your potted pals.

Houseplants That Tolerate Low Light

Choosing low light houseplants is an ideal solution for any indoor area with reduced natural light and, in the northern hemisphere, low light levels are prevalent all Winter long. Either supplement natural light with the addition of grow lights, or grow houseplants that thrive in a dimly lit environment. Some of our favorites include:

• Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra)
• Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema)
• Dumb Cane (Dieffenbachia)
• Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena)
• Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii)
• Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)
• Prayer Plant (Calathea)
• Snake Plant (Sansevieria)
• Spider Plant (Chlorophytum)
• ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia)

This is just a small sampling of popular indoor plants that do well with lower light levels. Check out your local Master Nursery Garden Center for additional varieties.

Houseplants that Tolerate Low Humidity

Most houseplants originate in tropical regions. These are areas of high humidity. Home heating systems, however, rob the air of precious moisture and the longer we run our systems, the drier the air becomes. Houseplants respond with the yellowing, browning, curling and dropping of their leaves. You can increase indoor humidity by grouping houseplants together, placing them on a tray of pebbles filled with water, misting frequently, or running an air humidifier. You may also choose houseplants that originate in arid areas. These plants will be tolerant, or even happy, in a low moisture environment. Generally, plants with thick, waxy, scaly, or hairy leaves are naturally better adapted to withstand less air moisture than others. Houseplants that tolerate average and low humidity levels includes:

Low Humidity

• Cacti
• Succulents
• Snake Plant
• Wax Plant

Average Humidity

• Cast Iron Plant
• Chinese Evergreen
• Dracaena
• Peperomia
• Pothos
• ZZ Plant

Winter Houseplant Care Begins Before the Cold Sets In

Making sure that all of your houseplants enter the Winter months as healthy as possible is one of the most important steps in ensuring vigor and beauty. Getting them off to a good start will make a big difference in how they tolerate taxing indoor conditions. Winter houseplant care begins before the cold arrives with:

The Correct Pot.

Your houseplant will have grown quite a bit during the Summer months and will need to be repotted. When purchasing a new houseplant, you may desire a decorative pot to enhance its beauty. The pot will need to be the right size for the plant and its anticipated growth, without being too big or too small. Adequate drainage is also essential to prevent problems associated with plant roots sitting in water.

Premium Potting Mix.

Garden soil has too many contaminants to be good for houseplants; instead, choose Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil  [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. This exceptional soil blend includes natural and organic ingredients and is perfectly balanced for both water holding capabilities and drainage to help avoid under- and over-watering your houseplants.

Proper Feeding.

Houseplants need a rest in the Winter and therefore should not be fed until growth resumes in the Spring. However, to get your houseplants through the cold season as healthy as possible, it is important to add an organic, slow-release fertilizer to the soil when repotting before the Winter sets in. The best product for this important step is either Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Starter Food or Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® All Purpose Food. Mix the recommended amount into your potting mix at transplant time for a gradual release of nutrients for houseplant Winter health.

Winter Houseplant Care Success

You selected the correct plant, container, soil, fertilizer and have taken measures to control insects. Success is in sight! Continue to monitor the health of your houseplants throughout the Winter season. Adjust watering, humidity, and light as necessary by checking your plant pals frequently. Make certain that your plants are not situated near a heating vent, will not be blasted with cold air when a door is opened, and do not lean against a cold windowpane.

Have additional questions regarding houseplants? Your local Master Nursery Garden Center is happy to help.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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Most gardeners think of it as a time of rest, but winter is the perfect time to plan next year’s winter wonderland. Take a look around you. Walk your neighborhood or a nearby arboretum. What colors, shapes, textures, and shadows do you find appealing? Consider replicating them in your yard to enjoy for many winters to come.

Winter Beauty in Your Landscape

Winter is a time of special beauty and interest. Berries sparkle on shrubs under a layer of frost and ice, while other shrubs have shades of bronze leaves that cling and rattle in winter breezes. The leafless branches of larger trees cast dramatic shadows across the freshly fallen snow. Bark hidden by the leaves of summer stands out gorgeously in the winter. Barks of silvery gray, white, green, yellow, purple or red hues add a burst of color when the landscape is covered in white. Even barks that are deeply fissured, sleek as satin, peeling in thin layers or curiously pocked by a pitted surface give interest to a wonderful winter landscape. Dried grasses stand out in stark contrast against the backdrop of dark evergreens, shaking snow off their delicate heads. There is even the surprising red, orange, and yellow ribbon-like blooms of witch-hazel, which flower in mid-winter, or the delicate lavenders and blues of tiny species of crocuses poking their heads out from under the snow. Pansies are also a great addition for late-season winter color in your flowerbeds. Everywhere you look, there can be beauty in the winter landscape.

Top Plants for Winter Interest

Many different plants offer interesting features that reach their full potential in the winter landscape. Outstanding selections include…

• Paperbark Maple (Acer griseum)
• Threadleaf Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum dissectum)
• Red Chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia)
• Shagbark Hickory (Carya ovata)
• Blue Atlas Cedar (Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca’)
• Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick (Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’)
• Winter Daphne (Daphne odora)
• Common Snow Drops (Galanthus nivalis)
• Wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens)
• Christmas Rose (Helleborus niger)
• Chinese witch-hazel (Hamamelis mollis)
• Winterberry Holly (Ilex verticillata) Need female and male plant for berries
• Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides)
• Common Camellia (Camellia japonica)
• Heathers/Heaths

Be sure to keep a list of what plants interest you as you observe the winter landscape around you. If you can’t identify them, take a picture and head to your local Master Nursery Garden Center for identification. While you are there, be sure to pick up Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] This exceptional, nutrient-rich soil amender consists of high-quality, organic ingredients.  It is the perfect soil enhancer to use next spring when putting all of your new plants in the ground that are destined to create a remarkable winter wonderland to be enjoyed for many years to come.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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Houseplants and pets make a house a home; however, some popular houseplants can be harmful to our precious pets. Fortunately, there are plenty of beautiful, pet-friendly houseplants that can create the ambiance you crave and are safe for your furry friends.

Favorite Pet-Friendly Houseplants

There are a variety of plants, ranging from easy-care for beginners to the more challenging for experienced growers, that are pet-safe, excellent choices, suitable for homes with both dogs and cats include…

1. Spider Plant– A great plant for beginners because of its forgiving nature, the spider plant may have either striped or plain foliage that cascades in elegant curves. This easy-care plant looks best when hung or may be perched on a pedestal for a similar effect.
2. Ponytail Palm– While this palm-like plant is actually part of the agave family, it is an excellent air purifier and its long, slender foliage adds welcome variety to a houseplant grouping. This plant prefers full sun and can grow up to four feet tall indoors.
3. African Violet– A classic blooming houseplant with rich purple, pink, magenta, white, and bicolor flowers and broad, velvety leaves, the African violet is a pet-friendly favorite. These colorful plants are compact, making them great for smaller spaces in the urban jungle.
4. Boston Fern– The delicate, feathery foliage of the Boston fern prefers filtered light and a higher humidity environment, making it great in bathrooms. Hang the plant to show off its foliage or perch it on top of a bookshelf or pedestal instead.
5. Wheat Grass– Also called cat grass or pet grass, is a lawn-like houseplant that is fun for pets to nibble. While wheat grass is relatively easy to grow, it does require regular “mowing” with appropriate shears to stay full and lush.
6. Cast Iron Plant– This extremely hardy plant is great for beginners and tolerates all types of neglect, including low light, low humidity, and irregular watering. This makes it a wonderful houseplant for the new plant parent or anyone who may find it difficult to offer scheduled care.
7. Polka Dot Plant– The colorful splashes of pink or white on this plant’s foliage make it a bright addition to any houseplant collection, and it can be a pet-friendly alternative to the highly toxic poinsettia during the holidays. Bright, indirect light is best to help this plant keep its fun coloration.
8. Bromeliad– These bold plants have colorful blooms and dramatic foliage, making them favorite statement pieces in the home or office. Bright light will help bring out their color, and humidity should be kept between 40 to 60%.
9. Prayer Plant– The colorful, striped foliage of the prayer plant, plus its unique habit of “folding” its foliage at night, make it a houseplant favorite. Bright, indirect light and high humidity will help keep this plant healthy and lush.
10. Peperomia– There are more than 1000 varieties of peperomia, not all are readily available, but all are easy-care and pet-safe plants. Small in stature, they are an excellent choice for placing on a nightstand, shelf, or desk. Peperomia prefer a medium to low light location out of direct sunlight. Allow the potting soil to become dry between waterings.

Protecting Your Houseplants from Pets

It’s important to remember that even if a houseplant is considered pet-friendly, pets that nibble on the foliage may have some digestive trouble, particularly if they were to eat a large quantity of the plant. Furthermore, pets can stress plants by tipping pots, laying on the plant, digging in the dirt, or otherwise disturbing the plant. For the safest relationship between your houseplants and your pets, you can take several steps to help them get along.

• Position houseplants out of reach of pets, or in a room where pets are not permitted to enter.
• Train pets to leave houseplants alone and reinforce that training whenever necessary.
• Use heavier clay, concrete, or ceramic pots that pets will be unable to easily tip.
• Use stones as a top dressing so pets are unable to dig in the plant’s soil.
• Spray the pot or foliage with bitter apple or other safe pet repellant sprays if needed.

To keep all of your precious houseplants healthy and looking their best, be sure to pot-them-up using Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil.  Choose the product for your region:

EASTERN & MIDWESTERN REGIONS:  Bumper Crop® Gardener’s Gold Organic Potting Soil is good for all outdoor and indoor container plants! It is a blend of sphagnum peat moss, composted hen manure, shellfish, perlite, and very old dark bark. It is also pH adjusted with lime, as needed. This product is perfectly suited for houseplants and all general garden planting. Gardener’s Gold Organic Potting Soil is a rich, earthy blend made with natural and organic ingredients with a special water-saving formula.

WESTERN REGION:  Bumper Crop Natural & Organic Potting Soil is a premium blend of natural and organic ingredients that are perfectly balanced for both water-holding capabilities and drainage. It is an excellent potting soil for both indoor and outdoor use in all container types and sizes.  This special natural and organic potting soil offers a blend of high-quality ingredients including earthworm castings, bat guano, and kelp.

When repotting your houseplants, it’s a great idea to add a little Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® All Purpose Food to your potting soil. This organic, all-purpose plant food is non-burning and will give your houseplant transplants a healthy start in their new dwelling.

Houseplants can be just as much a part of your family as any four-legged, furry family members, and by choosing pet-friendly houseplants, your pets can get along with your urban jungle just fine.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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Native to the Americas, dramatic Agave is the perfect companion for the California landscape. Along with its striking leaves and architectural form, Agave is astonishingly drought tolerant and fire-resistant, important qualities for west coast landscape plants.

About Agave

Although leaf shape and color may vary, Agave leaves always radiate from a central point in a symmetrical rosette. The leaves are succulent and, most often, pointy at the tip. Some varieties have smooth leaves while others possess leaves with teethed margins. Leaf color can range from deep green to bluish green to silvery blue to gray. Some varieties offer variegated leaves with yellow or white lines or edges. Agave is also available in a wide-ranging assortment of sizes from impressively enormous to dainty and small.

Grown primarily for its distinguished appearance, Agave does flower. The flower stalks tend to be imposing compared to the overall size of the plant, and it may take years, even decades, for an Agave to bloom. Flowers may be branched, similar to a tree, or unbranched. The flowers will form seed pods or bulbils, necessary for reproducing the plants. Once an Agave flowers, the main plant will die. But the plant leaves behind clones for propagating new Agaves. You may prevent Agave from flowering by cutting off the flower stalk as it begins to form. Agave flowers are an important source of nectar for pollinators such as hummingbirds and bees.

Growing Agave

Whether grown as a specimen or grouped in drifts in the landscape, Agave requires a full sun site – direct sun – and prefers a low humidity environment. Poor soil is not a problem, and Agave can tolerate nutrient deficient soil quite well once established. Give your Agave a good start by amending the native soil with Bumper Crop® Natural & Organic Soil Conditioner. This will help increase drainage, as sharp drainage is essential. Adding gravel or chicken grit to the planting area is also helpful. Fertilize lightly with Bumper Crop® Natural & Organic Starter Food. Although succulent, and therefore drought tolerant, watering of Agave is infrequent but occasionally necessary, more so for potted plants than those in the ground.

Types of Agaves

With Agave, there seems to be an unlimited selection of colors, shapes, forms, and sizes. Stop by your local Master Nursery® Garden Center to sample their offerings.

With so very many Agaves to choose from, it is hard to select our favorite varieties. But here we go…

• American Century Agave

Its large size, 6 to 12 feet high, and narrow, long, wavy leaves make this an irresistible Agave for the west coast landscape. With desirable blue-green foliage, this Agave is exceptionally winter hardy to the low teens.

• Blue Agave

Blue Agave is where tequila comes from. As the name implies, this Agave has beautiful blue foliage, and it can grow an impressive 8 feet high by 8 feet wide.

• Mountain Agave

This lovely, apple-green agave with reddish-brown teeth grows up to 4 feet tall and 5 feet wide. Mountain Agave prefers full sun but will tolerate a part shade location and will grow best in soil that is well-drained, rich in organic matter, and regularly irrigated.

• Queen Victoria Agave

A most beloved dark-green, toothless Agave of manageable size, about 18 inches in diameter. The leaves sport attractive white markings on their sides and have a spike at their tip.

• Fox Tail Agave

A lovely, slow-growing Agave that will eventually grow to 4 feet high and looks like a blossoming flower with graceful, undulating, silvery-green leaves. The leaves have no teeth or terminal spine, making this Agave a dream to plant and care for. This Agave will tolerate moist or dry, well-drained soil.

Astonishing, dramatic, colorful, easy-care Agave will make a spectacular statement in your dry west coast garden. Have fun experimenting with new and exciting varieties.

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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It’s finally here, that time of year that we’ve all been anticipating – fall! And, you know what fall means? Tulip time!

The cooler days of fall entice us back into the garden that the August heat forced us to abandon. This is when your local Master Nursery® Garden Center is brimming with fresh, new, seasonal plant material and overflowing with fall-planted, spring-flowering bulbs. And, we wish to point out, that no bulb type is more treasured than the tulip. With an almost limitless selection (100 species and over 3000 varieties divided into 15 distinct groups), you’ll never tire of the tulip.

Tips for Planting Tulips

Tulips are an easy-care addition to any garden or landscape, and they are simpler to plant than many gardeners realize. Tulips need cold winters to stimulate blooms. They flower effortlessly and, in most cases, return for many years in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 – 7. Tulips may be grown in Zones 8 – 11 with a pre-chilling period of 10-14 weeks at 35 to 45°F. In these warmer climates, tulips are treated as annuals.

Tulip 10 Step

1. Choose only top-sized, firm bulbs without bruises or obvious damage. Bigger bulbs generally indicate better quality and will provide more and larger flowers.
2. Bulbs should be planted as soon as purchased, otherwise store them in a cool, dry location until ready to plant. Plant tulip bulbs before the ground freezes. When planting in Zones 8 – 11, store bulbs at 35 to 45°F until planting time.
3. Choose a full or part sun location to plant tulips. A semi-shady location provides some relief from the heat in Zones 8 – 11.
4. If planting a large number of bulbs, consider digging a free-form bed or trench in which to plant. Individual holes are appropriate when planting a small number of tulips.
5. Planting beds and holes should be well-draining and the soil enriched with plenty of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region].
6. Plant tulips at the depth of three times the height of the bulb, approximately 6 inches deep.
7. Always plant pointed end up.
8. Apply a generous amount of bone meal at planting time.
9. Backfill with the excavated, amended soil.
10. Water the planting area thoroughly and mulch generously after planting tulip bulbs.

Tried & True Tulip Selections

Some tulips can be a little finicky, and while these may disappear from your garden after a year or two, other selections promise trouble-free blooms for years to come if planted and cared for correctly. Proper bulb planting starts with amending your soil with Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region] to ensure a healthy and nutritious planting environment with excellent drainage.

Species Tulips
Species Tulips are by far the longest-lived tulips and will even naturalize when given advantageous growing conditions. Small in stature, species tulips are an excellent choice for rock gardens and for planting in the front of beds and borders.

Darwin Hybrids
Darwin Hybrids perennialize quite well and are valued for their long-stemmed and large brightly colored flowers available in a wide range of hues. These mid-season bloomers make excellent cut flowers.

Emperor Tulips
Emperors are also good perennializing tulips. These modern hybrids are known for their substantial, elongated blooms borne on tall stems. Some even boast decoratively patterned and mottled foliage.

The temps are cooler, the garden is waiting, and your local Master Nursery® Garden Center is ready for you. So, what are you waiting for? Take advantage of tulip time and prepare for a bright and floriferous spring!

Need more gardening inspiration? Click here.

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Don’t let their subtle size fool you; winter pansies are tough, cool-weather plants that bloom for six or more consecutive months, from the beginning of fall until the end of spring, adding much-needed color to an otherwise stark winter landscape.

Places to Plant 

Pansies bloom in an array of colors to suit every taste. Often the petals are multi-colored with curious splotches, blotches, and markings that add a touch of whimsicality to the garden.

Versatile pansy blossoms may be used to brighten most areas of the winter garden. Adding a graceful drift of lively pansies to the front of an often-viewed bed or border will reinvigorate the winter landscape. Plant pansies under a tree, along a fence or pathway, and atop a stone wall to bring the dainty yet unusual flowers closer to the eye. Try tucking pansy plants into garden beds around spent perennials and shrubs. They are sure to brighten up a lackluster section of the garden landscape. Plant pansies anywhere that you will have occasion to enjoy their beauty and color all through the coldest months of the year.

Guess what? Winter pansies perform well in containers too! Mix them with dwarf shrubs or semi-evergreen perennials in planters placed on a deck, patio, or next to the front door to greet your guests with their array of welcoming hues. Or you may simply stuff a window box or hanging basket full of pansies to create an explosion of color.

Pretty Pansies

There is little difference between the pansies labeled as “winter” pansies and those labeled “spring” pansies. Pansy varieties sold in the autumn, however, are bred to be the most cold-tolerant and should be planted early in the fall to give them time to establish strong roots and shoots before a hard frost hits. When fall-planted, pansy plants are larger, more robust, and floriferous come spring than those planted in the springtime.

There are numerous varieties of gorgeous winter pansies available in the fall; some popular ones are:

• Matrix Series 

This series of winter pansies come in an assortment of colors that range from solid- to multi-colored, and from no markings to pretty little faces on heart-shaped petals. These plants have excellent branching, able to support an abundance of blooms.

• Cool Wave Pansies   

Super cold hardy, Cool Wave Pansies produce an abundance of colorful, medium-sized blooms on a vigorous spreading plant, making them the perfect choice for filling hanging baskets and planters or as a ground cover.

• Clear Mix Panola

Panola pansies are a cross between a pansy and violas, giving this series excellent cold hardiness, large flowers, and a high bloom count. These prolific bloomers are perfect for decorating beds, borders, and containers.

Practical Pansy Planting

Did you know that winter pansies, as with most annuals and perennials, perform their best if planted in soil that is rich in high-quality compost and fed with a well-balanced fertilizer that will promote blossoms?

• Ground Planting

In the fall, choose a well-drained planting location in full sun, part sun, or part shade. Work in 4-6 inches of Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Soil Builder [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. Plant pansies at the same level, or slightly higher, than they were growing in their market packs, taking care not to plant too deep or the plants may rot. Place plants about 4 – 6 inches apart. Apply Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Rose and Flower Food after planting, mulch, and water the bed thoroughly. Remember to check the plants often during the first three weeks after planting, or until new growth begins, to ensure adequate moisture necessary for healthy development.

• Container Planting

When planting winter pansies in containers, the instructions are the same as when planting directly into the ground, except, it is better to use Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil [Eastern & Midwestern Regions | Western Region]. This lightweight, rich potting soil, loaded with compost, is the perfect soil for all container-grown plants. The soil in containers tends to dry out more quickly than soil in the ground. It is important to pay attention to container soil moisture levels in the fall as the winter pansies work to produce strong roots to sustain them through the cold months.

Pansy Maintenance
Minimal maintenance is necessary for winter pansies to reach their full potential.

Deadheading, removing spent blooms, is helpful as it stimulates the plant to produce abundant blossoms. Clipping out any dried foliage will keep pansy plants looking their best.

Whether scattered amongst the seasonal chrysanthemums and ornamental cabbage & kale or tucked into window boxes and containers, easy-care winter pansies add color and whimsy to the late-season landscape straight through to spring.

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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Organic Soil Builder
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Organic Potting Soil
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Rose and Flower Food
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Master Nursery® Bumper Crop® Potting Soil
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